High on Huaraz

I spend my second night in a row on a bus, jostling for prime position with my lovely neighbour's shoulder and arrive in Huaraz at 6am. This time without coffee I brave the mean streets where the sun is just getting its act together. And out of the blue we have one of those jaw dropping, this is why I travel moments. One by one the Cordillera Blanca range of mountains become visible in the background as they become encased in a warm orange glow. With 33 mountains over 5500m, the C.B. is the 2nd highest mountain range after the Himalayas. I walked around for a least half an hour, mouth open, shooting pictures before realising that I was about to fall over out of tiredness and/or hunger. By now it is around 7, so I ring the door of a hostel to be greeted by an extremely sleepy Canadian. I say "Room". He says "Yes". I say "How much". He says "45". I say "OK". He says "Key". I say "Thanks". And with that Shakesperian encounter I climb the stairs to my room and fall asleep until 4pm.

Upon awakening I take a look around town, which proves to be another Thamel/Cusco/Banos, tourist agents everywhere and every person on the street trying to sell you something. But the Peruvians aren't hard enough to be pushy so you just smile at them and walk on.

I found some food and dared have a beer and was back in bed by 10pm.


The next day it was out to Lake Llanganuco, which deserves the word "breathtaking" in every sense. Situated around 3800 meters, it is the most vivid turquoise colour and is surrounded by 6000m peaks (including Peru's highest mountain - Huscaran).


From Llanganuco it was up to the trailhead for a hike up to Lake 69, which was meant to be even more beautiful than Llanganuco. I was dubious, but started up the valley anyway. On the way I had encountered a young Israeli software engineer who was obviously gay (or so my gaydar told me). We hiked fo 4 hours together and the above sentence is all I got out of him. e.g. he was Israeli and a software engineer. I might have caught his name at some stage but it was one of those weird ones so in one ear and out the other. The weather had turned a little bleak, but we hiked at some speed ever upwards, each step revealing more snowy peaks. After about 2 hours I saw a sliver of blue over a ridge and we clambered up to the lake. And by fuck they were right, Lake 69 is simply stunning. The pure definition of blue, with icy peaks all around it and a waterfall cascading down the rocks to fill it. I was tempted to go for a swim, but held myself back after dipping a little finger in. Any closer to 0 degrees and it would have been ice. The hike down was just as chatty, but thank god the scenery did enough talking and I just stared around the valley taking pictures till my battery ran out.

All in all I think the Huascaran National Park (including the 2 lakes) might actually be the most beautiful place I have every seen. Certainly giving the Milford Sound a run for its money.

Photos here