The Quilotoa circuit is a rough trail of roads (mostly unpaved) leading from Latacunga and winding its way through middle Ecuador. It was early on a Sunday morning and things didn't start too well as the bus terminal I went to had been closed for what looked like a long time. Eventually found the new one and got on the Latacunga bus, which was departing in 3 minutes - a standard reply in Ecuador where every bus is departing in exactly 3 minutes. 20 minutes later we left and we motored down the ugly Panamerican highway.
In Latacunga it was time for breakfast, so I walked into the nearest place that looked like I could acquire some food. I was promptly greeted by a 10 year old girl. I asked for some eggs and she skipped away into the kitchen. A couple of minutes later a 6 year old boy brought me a tray with my eggs, a coffee, a glass of papaya juice and a bread roll with cheese. I scoffed them down and asked the little lady how much. 1 dollar. More daylight robbery I tell you.
The next bus was to Chugchilán, a tiny village half way round the loop. There are only 2 direct busses a day, so the bus was packed and 90% of the people were wearing traditional dress. For the women it was felt halts with peacock feathers, skirts and colourful tops the men had black trousers and a poncho. The bus chugged along, ever uphill, stopping anytime somebody wanted to get on or off. No such things as bus stops here. We reached a small village and there was this most unmerciful scream. It sounded like 20 babies being murdered simultaneouly. It turned out to be rather a large black big, who was being hauled up onto the roof of the bus. Chickens can ride inside. Pigs stay on the outside. Animal racism. The were sounds of hooves on the roof but they soon died down as the pig obviously decided to settle down and enjoy the ride.
The weather was shite, clouds and fog everywhere so the world famous view was well hidden. Just as dusk was decending we arrived into Chugchilán and I made my way to one of the 3 lodging options. The main other one being a horribly right-on yoga, rice & vegetables and composting toilets "ecolodge", which charges 33 dollars for a dorm room. It was nippy up at 3200 meters, so it was on with the fleece and I took a look around town. That lasted 15 minutes and I ended up in the town's only "bar". A small room with a fridge and some stools. Met a nice couple from Colorado and we knocked back some beers before heading back to our hostel for dinner.
The next day I was up early and one look out the window made me cheer up - blue skies and sunshine. I took some form of truck back up to Quilotoa. Sitting on the roof with the Colorado-couple (sounds like a crime gang) and a German girl. This time we were able to appreciate the views. Canyons, mountains, rivers, waterfalls... All there and very lovely.
In Quilotoa there is a famous crater lake, so I hiked down with the German girl. I didn't think it would be much but as we hiked over the crater's edge and caught a first glimpse of the lake I was proved VERY wrong. Yep, the Quilotoa crater lake is just one of those absolutely breathtaking places (picture above). We walked around for hours taking photos before heading back to the road for the decent to Latacunga.
On to Baños next.
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