
2 buses a taxi and a boat ride saw me make it from Tulum to Caye Caulker, Belize. Country number #60 for me. The 3rd English speaking country in the continental Americas, the difference to Mexico is immediately noticeable upon crossing the border. The signs change, the music changes from Mariachi to Reggae and the skin tone gets about 3 shades darker.
Caye Caulker is Belize on steroids. Non-stop reggae, dreadlocks is the hairstyle of choice and chicken, rice and beans is the staple diet. I had hooked up with some people on the way and we managed to get a cool apartment for 5. The days took on a familiar pattern involving beaches, beer and beans. Did a bit of diving which was a bit unspectacular except for our boat captain - "popeye" who was funnier than a bottle of crisps.
Good Friday was spent drinking beer and lying on the beach and I'm sure Jesus would have done the same if given the chance. Met a group of English people who had been out in the rainforests of Belize on volunteer work. They mentioned that most of them had been infected by botflys. I shouldn't have asked, but they showed me their scalps and indeed there were little bumps that were moving. Click here to read more (on an empty stomach please)
Easter Sunday involved no Easter eggs or bunnies for that matter, but did involve Captain Steve's magical sailing & snorkelling trip. First stop Shark Ray Alley, where we swam with stingrays the size of small cars (no joke) and nurse sharks the size of small sofas. Our dive guide (Steve preferred to stay on board and smoke ganja after the stressful sail out) took great pleasure in stroking the stingrays and hugging the sharks. It was a veritable underwater adult petting zoo.
The second stop was the marine reserve - Hol Chan. This time we discovered a 2m Moray Eel, which I saw outside a hole for the first time. Frightening creature with the sharpest teeth. Just before getting back on board a green turtle swam by and starting grazing on the seaweed on the sea floor.
Back on board it was time for some more reggae and Steve's famous rum punch. By the time we got back to dry land we were all half-cut. Truly unable seamen.
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